Four days behind schedule

Finally leaving Reykjavik.The mechanical difficulties and logistics to remedy the situation has eaten through Sunday, Monday, and into Tuesday. Paranoia about the reliability of the Traveler's Check rear wheel placement and corresponding rear tire clearance on the rear chainstays, I ditched the dropout spacers in favor of some small screws to hold the hub in the proper forward position without too much reliance on tension from the quick release.

Wide tires and a light luggage load are ideal for the sandy, rough gravel, and likely muddy terrain as it is unseasonably rainy this month.

New rear QR was sourced from our new friends at Kria Cycles located in the old port area of Reykjavik.  They graciously  let me have free run of their shop to fix up Monica's bike. Left payment in the international currency of bike shops, beer.  

The shop's proprietor was a wellspring of knowledge pertaining to mountain biking around Iceland, and he was happy to share his favorite routes. Checkout his website: Icelandtrails.com he's pretty bad ass.

Reykjavik City Hostel Campground

The hostel campground has been a great place to begin our time in Iceland.

People from all over the world (although mostly Europe) converging at the outset and end of their respective journeys around the island. Swapping stories, trips from the road, and favorite hot spring spots. My ears pick out German, French, Portuguese, Swiss German, Russian, Norwegian, Swedish, Icelandic, Japanese, Spanish and lucky for me the common denominator of communication is English.  

 Travelers congregating around the wi fi hot spot, hunched over cell phones; like a campfire only not as social and poor for one's posture.

Well worth the 1400 kronur (about $11.50) that will get you a patch of grass, hot showers, shelter from the rain at a picnic table, wi fi, electricity, and access to the 'free stuff' shelves.  Fuel, lighters, toilet paper, clothing, charcoal, and even a bike tire and a tent.  I scored a 16oz bottle of jetboil 4 season fuel (worth 1800k) , a lighter, and hiking trail guidebook in English. The stay practically pays for itself in supplies.

Also close proximity to city botanical gardens, coastal bike path, a municipal hot spring and swimming pool, and a delicious bakery.  Traditional Icelandic treat is triangular fry-bread dipped partway in chocolate. 

Luxury camping.

My dream car.

Local flora and bird life.  

Adventure: Trying to leave Reykjavik

"Adventure is just bad planning."

Roald Amundsen 

My GoLite jacket has proven less than waterproof or breathable in my first 24 hours in Iceland. Pertex does not equal Gore tex. I've been soaked to the bone since arriving.

 Cashed in my 401k for a new jacket so I can survive the next 10 days

Great cafe in the city center with refills on coffee and free concert at the skate park out back.

 Final provisions of wool from the thrift shop to keep warmer.

Bike shop Kria (http://www.kriacycles.com) the source for first hand knowledge of dirt track cycling in Iceland. We stopped by to discuss our intended route but unfortunately they were closed for the weekend.

As we set out to escape the city, progress was slow due to navigating the urban turmoil of weekend traffic. Ultimately we were able to find an excellent bike path that snakes southward out to the countryside. 

First glimpse of an  Icelandic waterfall along the path.

Cockpit. Insulated mug, dry bag with clothes & sleeping pad, 2 person tent, stove, fuel, pots, and snacks.

Magic writing guides the way.

Like a fairy tale, cute bunnies frolicking asp we rode through.

Once we were outside the city, catastrophic failure of Velocity rear quick release. Cam lever decided to fall apart.

 Fortuitous place to break down, fairy-land bike workshop complete with natural bike stand. 

A reliable strong QR is necessary for the rear horizontal dropouts of the Surly Travelers Check to maintain proper wheel  placement. A loner shimano QR from my bike does the trick. 

A little McGyver style engineering, help from the fairies, and some gorilla tape holding it all together to limp us back to Reykjavik. As we discovered just that morning that most bike shops are closed on the weekends, a new QR skewer would have to wait until Monday.

The sky was bright for a 4 am bedtime back at the Reykjavik City Hostel Campground. Thankful that the mechanical difficulties were still within a day of resources.

Anchorage to Keflavik to Reykjavik

Landed at 6 am Iceland time, going on 5 hours of sleep in the last two days.

Flying over the far north. Melting of the ice. 7 hour flight time from Anchorage.

Picked up a local SIM card but had do do some quick surgery to get it to fit my phone.

124 Kronur to 1 dollar. Two cappuccinos to reset my clock.

Foreboding clouds as we await the bus into the city to rebuild the bikes and store the bike luggage.

Icelanders are the original hipsters. Everyone in Brooklyn aspires to this.

Found a camp site in Reykjavik and a window of rainless weather to rebuild the bikes.

Napped through a crazy rainstorm and woke up to take a walking tour of the city and stretch our legs.

Lamb hot dogs, most affordable hot food

Environmentally mindful architecture.

Graffiti ridden skatepark 

Erie beautiful lighting with the 2am sunlight 

Urban garden.

Dinner on the run, torrential rains defined most of the evening, testing the limits of my rain gear.

Historic.

Lulled to sleep by the rain.